Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Portugal by Train: Part II - Chamartin, Madrid to Santa Apolonia, Portugal

In the last 10 or so years, I’ve come to the conclusion that as long as there’s a good story, it’s an experience worth having. 

Here is a brief synopsis of exactly what I mean.





2007 -  In Peru, my note worthy experience was a 5+ hour day at the spa where I was exfoliated with an actual peach pit, had wax liberally applied most everywhere and removed with magazine pages then plucked (where waxing had failed), followed by a dinner of cow heart.   Thanks, Leigh! 












2008 - Cooking tour in Tuscany, Italy; first vacation “solo”.  This ends up being my first vacation experience with 6 older women and a catholic priest.  If you’ve never tried this, I highly recommend it.    The stories from this trip are probably the reason why I’m still traveling!









2008 - In Columbia, where I was a known “wedding crasher” and then caught the bouquet.   Not a big hit amongst the other younger women who had wedding fever. 





 2010 -  I again work my way into a trip to Hawaii (Big Island) last minute  and while I’d been to Hawaii, this would be the first time  snorkeling.  My first real experience worked out so well for me - as everyone else around me did, I slid off the side of the boat but unlike everyone else my bikini top gets stuck.  I’m now dangling from the boat, topless laughing so hard that I can’t tell the tour guide why I need help or why I’m not in the water with everyone else.  Bet no one expected to see those fish that day.  You’re Welcome. 




2010 - Again, a known “wedding crasher”, I head to Kenya for a wedding and then safari.  All seems to go well until I, solely, receive a text message that my layover light from Heathrow, UK is cancelled as it’s “snowmageddon”.  All but one runway is shut down as the UK tries to manage the situation; most people at this point were stranded for over 5 days waiting for flights out.  Trains and cars are all booked.  I somehow manage to get out in just over 36 hours, just in time for Christmas Eve with my family.







2011 -  Irish Pub tour!  Did not get memo that it was the AARP Pub Tour where some participants were barely living (one was not) and that as a bonus, your tour guide would be conducting recon on best opportunity to try and make out with you (you being me… I never did follow up on if others had the same (mis)fortune].  Thank heaven for Jack and Sheri; they saved my vacation! 






This should be sufficient enough evidence to make my point; I have stories.  Portugal 2012 is no different. 

As I described earlier, the Barcelona train station is amazing and the train to Madrid was better than any flight in recent memory.   Then there's the experience of having to switch train stations in Madrid and the subsequent train ride; all which have burst my rose colored visions of traveling Europe via train.   

To be honest I’m still baffled by where there are two major train stations in Madrid but there are and I arrived from Barcelona in one, departed to Portugal from another.  This requires a subway ride, which for the most part seems like it’d be a manageable experience.  So I, with my bag strapped to my back make my way to the metro station and head straight to the information desk.  I ask if I need a ticket; this seems silly but on the train from Barcelona there was some announcement that if you were traveling long distance within the next 3 hours, you didn’t have to pay for a transfer.  My asking obviously starts up some discussion between the folks at the desk for which I have no idea what decision they’ve reached.  In short, I ask simply “do I need a ticket” and with a headshake yes, I go to the ticket kiosk.  Despite my selecting English, after the first screen everything is in Spanish, I’m rushing because I notice I have no idea what the hell I’m doing and am rapidly dwindling the 1.5 hours layover between trains. 

I therefore purchase a ticket with Chamartin in the name and head to the metro.  Ok, there are subway lines everywhere, the map is of no help, and I’m not sure what line I’m on or what direction it's heading.  F@$%!  Ok, try not to look like a freaked out tourist with no clue.  Use what you have acquired from your three yoga classes in Spanish; “inhala”…. “exhala”.   I walk up to a security guard who has blood shot eyes (maybe a little too much fun during siesta?) who then becomes apparently concerned for my safety as all he keeps giving me are tips for traveling safely in a city.  I get that this is what he’s trying to do as I’m trying to say I have a ticket for another train at the other station (shocker I bought a subway ticket to the WRONG station but it’ll work) and he, in charades fashion, is instructing me to watch my bag, to keep an eye out for pick pocketers, and to keep alert for my stop.  He then proceeds to tell me not to say anything to anyone and to immediately look for security on the other side so that they can help me find my next train.  What the hell did I look like? 

Alas, a 20 minute subway ride and a long journey (following other back packers through the maze of the metro station to Renfe station), I make it with 30 minutes left before my train to Portugal.  This station, unlike Barcelona reminds me of a very old Penn Station (NYC) with platforms lined up with electronic boards that indicate from which platform you will depart.  Of course they give just enough notice to create a mini stampede.   Finally, we have a platform number and people start running.

I however am in no rush; I previously decided to expand my travel repertoire by booking a tourista sleeping car.  Thus, in advance I know that I’ll be in a room with 3 other women but at least I have an assigned bed, so why worry?  I walk toward the car, find the room and look in.  I can’t help but laugh when I see what I’ve gotten myself into.  All I can do is pray I have the top bunk! 



This picture is to scale; the room really is this small.  If one person is standing, the other three must sit on a bed or outside the car.    Below is a close up of the sink in the room; public WC is down the hall.  




Below: public WC.  Bet you're REALLY jealous now!  Yikes......



Exhale – I do have the top bunk and while it’s cramped, it’s an experience so I just laugh once more and climb up to my bed.  A nice woman from Portugal then comes in, sees me sitting on the bed and then states “its ok, I have that bed actually, you must have this other one but that’s ok.  Don’t move, I’ll just sleep on this one”.  So I look and then I look again.  No I say, this is actually my bed.  Long story short, 1 bed, two bookings.  Now I really laugh because as I’ve chronologically laid out for you in the beginning, this is my travel luck.


Clearly not a bed big enough for two; strangers or not.


After total and utter confusion on behalf of the crew, despite indications that this happens more often then they’d like to admit, we’re finally sorted out and neither of us have to sleep in a seat, or what I’d like to refer to as the likes of any cheap beach accommodation where fifty plus 20 year olds are sitting.  I.E. there was no sleep to be had there.

So I make my way back to my assigned car to find that my bunkmates (an older Indian woman, a young Spanish girl and mid to late 20’s eastern European girl) are already tucked into bed and trying to sleep.    Let me share it was the eastern European girl who was lowering the boom on car rules (lights, sleep/rise times, etc).  I crawl into my bed were for the first 2 hours I wonder why the hell they would provide wool blankets for sleeping.  It was hotter than hell in there and if I wasn’t so skeeved out about any part of my skin touching the blanket/sheets, I would have stripped down to the bare minimum clothing needed to not completely disrespect my bunkmates.  But then comes the AC.  We went from hell to the artic faster than a sports car can hit 60mph and I found myself shivering for the remainder of the trip.

Sleep was mostly tossing and turning till finally we arrived in Portugal. 

I have to say one thing though that’s got me completely confused and I don’t want this to be lost on anyone.  NO ONE asked for my passport.  At immigration in Barcelona when I arrived they NEVER asked why I was here, where I’d be staying, for how long I’d be there… NOTHING.  How the HELL does anyone know where I am?    Besides being baffled by that, I’m just bitter I have no stamp from Portugal in my passport.  

Moving on.  I walk off the train and find the tourist information office to pick up as much literature available on what there is to do in Portugal and then wander around looking for the metro.  My tour book from AAA (a brief guide to various cities in Europe but it was free so I can’t complain too much) says that there’s a metro but where the hell is it?  I walk back to the tourist office, find out I have to walk outside and wahla!  There it is.  I walk up to the ticket kiosk and then try and figure out which direction I need to go to make it to where I believe my hotel is located.  Having no instant access to Internet though (no internet service means no google maps) I am relying on a tourist map to get me there.  Thankfully the metro ride is successful and I’m headed in the right direction.  Awesome, because by this point, I needed a confidence boost.

I then climb back out of the metro and determine that the hotel is straight ahead (up a hill).  I walk about a block and then decide to confirm with a bellhop at a nearby hotel.  He confirms that I am indeed headed in the right direction: keep walking up the hill and once I get to the large traffic circle, the hotel will be there.  Can this really be?  I’m 2 for 2 on directions today?  If I wasn’t experiencing spinal compression from all the shit I’m lugging on my back, I’d jump up and click my heals together.

Walking……. Walking…….. walking…… I still don’t see my hotel.  Mind you there a ton of hotels I’m passing, just not mine.  So as I’m now profusely sweating through all my clothes and I’m at the circle with no sight of my hotel, I stop in another hotel to ask for help.  The slightly annoyed gentleman then tells me that I’ve walked the complete wrong direction and that I need to walk about 10 minutes back and it’ll be there.  Oh you mean right across from the metro I got off at and not up this damn hill?  Thanks a heap!

I pass the original bellhop that I stopped and asked for help muttering silently how much of an idiot he is while imagining strangling him.

Thankfully I arrive at my hotel, they allow me to check in early AND inform me that breakfast is still being served!  


Above: Entrance to Hotel Lisboa Plaza.  I HIGHLY recommend this place.  Accommodations were amazing and only 99 euros (including breakfast) per night during the peak season.


Above:  Room was very spacious, clean and jammed pack full of sunlight.  Only downside - if you do not enjoy loud/noisy sleeping quarters as I do, the lower floors can be a bit loud despite this being located on a side street.


Above: Stairwell leading up to rooms.


Above: Breakfast buffet.


Above: A hearty breakfast of bread, tomato and cheese, and a hard boiled egg.  

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