Side B: Portugal - Days 2 & 3: Out and About

In the previous post I mocked tour buses. I will say for a few things (which were not listed in my abridged tour book of Europe) in Portugal, take the damn bas. Even if it’s for ½ day, take the bus.

I saw Portugal much like I’m seeing Barcelona; by foot. There are a few sites, however I missed (again, I didn’t realize they existed until I saw post cards) out to the west of the city. Specifically these are: Mosteiro Dos Jerónimos, Torre de Balém and Padrão dos Descobrimentos. If you google them they’re pretty cool and worth having a look. I foolishly on the third day thought I could walk there (why not, I had all day to sight see prior to my 11pm train ride) – do not attempt this. I got probably within 30 minutes of the closest site and decided that walking 1.5 hours in the heat was just too much and turned back. So annoying.

Thus day 3 was a bust but here are pictures of the remainder of my time in Portugal, which you’ll notice is mostly making this a food and wine vs. a museum and other historical sites tour. Enjoy!

Pictures of the Moorish influence on architecture

Below: Circle to the entrance to Jardim da Estrela

Pictures from Jardim da Estrela

Is this Mother Goose (below)?

The Basilica da Estrela

Views from Bairro Alto

CÇ de Glória

Elevador de Santa Justa

View of city at night

Food

Food in Portugal was delicious, focused around meats, fish and much like their neighbor to the east, carbs.

One dish that apparently is very Portuguese is rice and seafood (shown below). It was good; chuck full of shrimp, lobster, crabs, muscles, etc.

Speaking of lobsters and crabs, I realize they coexist in the ocean but in a tank? Has anyone ever seen this before?

I’ve also been venturing out (away from meat) and was on the search for a vegetarian restaurant highly recommended by tripadvisor. After a very shady walk through the windy streets at dusk, I decided to abandon my search until daylight and to head back to the hotel in search of something, anything to eat (in a much less intimidating local). As luck would have it, one block away from reaching my hotel, I looked right and there it was – a vegetarian restaurant! Much like Portuguese history, the food had Moroccan influences.

Vegetarian Style Chips and “salsa’

The chips were nice and airy and the salsa had a texture of yogurt dip you’d eat with kebabs but with a more citrusy vs cucumber taste.

For the main course I chose couscous and veggies, something between a soup and rice dish. It was really good and came out in this porcelain style dish. I assume this was cooked in a brick oven (or similar apparatus).

Finally for dessert, a miniature cup of vanilla ice cream incrusted in chocolate (imagine magic shell only 100% better tasting)

Below: a recommended restaurant that was listed in the NYTimes top places to eat in Lisbon.

The venue is extremely intimate with a seating capacity of 20 (fully packed). The owner/chef is in the kitchen immediately behind the food display case, which seats are crammed up against. He converses with a woman at the table next to me, whom is entertaining US guests so is speaking English, thus allowing me to enjoy over hearing the conversation. Including “this is the meat today” (he holds up a huge slab of meat) and “do you want this fish for the table” (a very large white fish of sorts). The staff was incredibly courteous and excited to speak with me about my visit from the US to Portugal. They also recommended a small white fish since I was dining solo and graciously deboned (and beheaded) my meal for me.

Above: olives and vino verde prior to the main course. As a matter of personal opinion, I don't like vino verde and will stick to vino blanco from here on out.

Above: Fish, potatoes and salad

The meal was quite tasty I have to say. As mentioned I did not enjoy the vino verde (green wine) so I left it and decided to venture up through Barrio Alto to see what the nightlife was like. A block or so away I heard music and as I approached a sign for a wine bar. Well, don’t mind if I do.

Post a lovely glass of rose and a small bite of dessert later, I headed back toward the hotel but not without first stopping in a local wine bar which I had passed on my way to dinner. I enjoyed the wine so much that I returned there for dinner my third and final day in Portugal.